Sunday, January 29, 2012

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Some more on zardozi embroidery!

In Zardozi, the design is with the twisted gold thread called Gijai. Gold and silver embroidery is done using any type of stitch.
1) Laid stitch/ wouching stitch,
2) Satin stitch,
3) Chain stitch,
4) Stem stitch and
5) Running stitch.

The chain stitch resembles in counter part in Kutch work and is generally used in sarees.

The stem stitch and the running stitch are used for a miscellaneous type of work.

The laid/ wouching stitch as it is called is important and suited in gold thread. It is generally used on cushion/ masnads (small gaddis) gold and silver embroidery is invariably done with cloth stitched over a wooden frame. Sometimes certain designs as leaves and petals of flowers are padded to give a raised effect.

In the Gota Kinari is in fine shaped birds, animals, human figures attached to the cloth and encased in wires of silver and gold while the space around is covered by coloured silk.

The overall effect is of enamelling. The most important feature in gota and Kinari work is the cutting of the woven gold border into various shapes and design, which are stitched on the cloth, thus creating a variety of textured patterns in the design.

Karchobi is divided into 4 types.

1) Kasab-Tiki:

Using gold and silver thread and spangles.

2) Jhik-Chalak: Using twisted thread called Jhick and zig-zag thread called chalak.

3) Bharat-Karachi: Using pieces of cardboard to provide a raised body for the design, the material being used as a padding.

4) Jhik-Tiki: Using twisted thread and spangles.

Gold and silver embroidery can be easily done on satin with a backruns lining. The design should be first traced on satin fabric and tracked to the backrun of the same size on the 4 sides. 7 inch needles and threads should be used to embroider the gold and silver work.

There are many types of Zari threads. The thicker Kalabatune is braided gold thread used in the border while a thinner variety is used at the thinner edges for batwas, tassels, necklace strings.

Tirora: It is a gold thread especially twisted using curves and complex designs. The dull Zari thread in 'Kora' and lustrous one in 'Chikna'. The design is first traced out on paper, pricked with pins, with fine powder lightly rubbed on it. Now-a-days, gold and silver embroidery is mainly done on sarees and choli pieces. The other articles embroidered are evening bags, slippers, belts.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

More on Zari embroidery!

Embroidery done with metallic threads is called kalabattu and forms the zari. The main zari production centres are Surat in Gujarat and Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. Here the metal ingots are melted into metal bars called pasa from which lengths are got by beating it after treatment. This is then pulled through perforated steel plates to make it into wires, followed by the tarkashi process to make it thin with rubber and diamond dies. The last stage is called badla where the wire is flattened and twisted with silk or cotton thread to become kasab or kalabattu. This has uniform evenness, flexibility, softness, and ductility. Kasab can stand for real silver / gold, as well as for plated silver/gold or for an imitation in which a copper base is given a coat of silver or golden colour to make the product less expensive.
Zari thread is used widely in weaving but more selectively in embroidery. For intricate patterns gijai or a thin, stiff wire is used";" sitara, a small star-shaped metal piece is used for floral designs. This type of embroidery is called salma-sitara. The thicker kalabattu is a braided gold thread used for borders while the thinner variety is used at the end of the drawstring of purses or batwas, and in tassels, necklaces, and strings. Tikora is a gold thread spirally twisted for complicated designs. The dull zari thread is called kora and the more shiny one is called chikna. The equipment that is used for embroidery is a rectangular wooden-frame called karchob and a wooden leg called thapa used for sewing laces. Listed below are different kinds of zari work.
Zardozi : This is a heavy and more elaborate embroidery work which uses varieties of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, and gota. It is used to embellish wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes. The material on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and satin. The kind of stitches found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori, and seed pearls, among others. The main centres are in Delhi, Jaipur, Banaras, Agra, and Surat. The old teach the young and the skill continues from generation to generation.
Kamdani : This is a lighter needlework which is done on lighter material like scarves, veils, and caps. Ordinary thread is used and the wire is pressed down with the stitching producing a satin-stitch effect. The effect produced is glittering and is called hazara butti (thousand lights).
Mina Work : This is thus called owing to its resemblance with enamel work. The embroidery is done in gold.
Kataoki Bel : This is a border pattern made of stiff canvas and the whole surface is filled with sequin edging. A variation of this border technique is lace made on net and filled with zari stitches and spangles.
Makaish : This is one of the oldest styles and is done with silver wire or badla. The wire itself serves as a needle, piercing the material to complete the stitches. A variety of designs are produced in this manner.
Tilla or Marori Work : This is the kind of embroidery where gold thread is stitched on to the surface with a needle.
Gota Work : The woven gold border is cut into various shapes to create a variety of textures in the patterns. In Jaipur the border of the material or sari is cut into shapes of birds, animals, and human figures, attached to the cloth, and covered with wires of silver and gold";" it is surrounded by coloured silks. The work resembles enamelling.
Kinari Work : A small variation is kinari work where the embellishments are done only at the edges in the form of tassels. This is done mainly by men and women of the Muslim community.
The areas in which zari embroidery is practised include Kashmir, Delhi, Agra, and Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh, Ajmer in Rajasthan, and Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh. The batwas (small purses) of Bhopal are very well-known and are used for storing small coins, betel nuts, scent bottles, and the like. The other centres are Mumbai, Hyderabad, and Chennai, along with other places in the
Mukesh work

Silver embedded into the fabric is Mukesh work.Tine dots made of Bdala or plain silver strip is Mulesh.
Badla work

badla(nakki) is a very thin very flexible metalic strips approximately about 2mm wide..usually silver in color..but few bright colours are also available..
special needle is there for this work...
just stitch like cross stitch n cut the strips on wrong side of the fabric and press it...same should be done all along the design.

Dabka or Kora work

Badla with Kundan

Difference between Dabka and Salma or nakkashi

Dabka is a very fine thread of metal that is coiled tightly, so it's hollow inside. It's then cut into the appropriate sized and stitched on the fabric by passing a needle through the middle. Skilled kaarigar's can even do french knots with the smallest size (diameter) of dabka.

Naqshi is a flat metal strip which is coiled in an angular way. It's not nearly as robust or firm as dabka. It does give a different effect though in terms of texture so sometimes they will use a mix of the two (Salma work). But work with mostly naqshi is definitely done because of a cost/skill factor involved.

In the picture I quoted, the long copper bits near the diamante in the middle of the flowers are dabka. All the pale gold stuff is naqshi.

Zardosi, Zardosi Gold Embroidery, Zardosi Silver Embroidery, Zardosi Work, Indian Traditional Embroidery, India

Zardosi, Zardosi Gold Embroidery, Zardosi Silver Embroidery, Zardosi Work, Indian Traditional Embroidery, India

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Monday, January 16, 2012

Beautiful embroidery of kutch,Gujrat

Baroda Print,My visit to Vadodara

This video was taken by me during my visit to Baroda.There I got a chance to visit this small factory cum shop of Baroda Print.Baroda print  has nothing to do with traditional craft but it is more of a contemporary version of Block printing.Nevertheless it is wonderfull.