Thursday, January 26, 2012

Some more on zardozi embroidery!

In Zardozi, the design is with the twisted gold thread called Gijai. Gold and silver embroidery is done using any type of stitch.
1) Laid stitch/ wouching stitch,
2) Satin stitch,
3) Chain stitch,
4) Stem stitch and
5) Running stitch.

The chain stitch resembles in counter part in Kutch work and is generally used in sarees.

The stem stitch and the running stitch are used for a miscellaneous type of work.

The laid/ wouching stitch as it is called is important and suited in gold thread. It is generally used on cushion/ masnads (small gaddis) gold and silver embroidery is invariably done with cloth stitched over a wooden frame. Sometimes certain designs as leaves and petals of flowers are padded to give a raised effect.

In the Gota Kinari is in fine shaped birds, animals, human figures attached to the cloth and encased in wires of silver and gold while the space around is covered by coloured silk.

The overall effect is of enamelling. The most important feature in gota and Kinari work is the cutting of the woven gold border into various shapes and design, which are stitched on the cloth, thus creating a variety of textured patterns in the design.

Karchobi is divided into 4 types.

1) Kasab-Tiki:

Using gold and silver thread and spangles.

2) Jhik-Chalak: Using twisted thread called Jhick and zig-zag thread called chalak.

3) Bharat-Karachi: Using pieces of cardboard to provide a raised body for the design, the material being used as a padding.

4) Jhik-Tiki: Using twisted thread and spangles.

Gold and silver embroidery can be easily done on satin with a backruns lining. The design should be first traced on satin fabric and tracked to the backrun of the same size on the 4 sides. 7 inch needles and threads should be used to embroider the gold and silver work.

There are many types of Zari threads. The thicker Kalabatune is braided gold thread used in the border while a thinner variety is used at the thinner edges for batwas, tassels, necklace strings.

Tirora: It is a gold thread especially twisted using curves and complex designs. The dull Zari thread in 'Kora' and lustrous one in 'Chikna'. The design is first traced out on paper, pricked with pins, with fine powder lightly rubbed on it. Now-a-days, gold and silver embroidery is mainly done on sarees and choli pieces. The other articles embroidered are evening bags, slippers, belts.

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