Friday, September 9, 2011


DUE TO ITS location on the migratory routes from Central Asia,Africa,Afganistan and Pakistan to India,The Thar Desert has been subject to a variety of cultural influences that have shaped its crafts-notably embroidery,bandhej,(tie-dye),block printing and pottery.
Despite the later division of the Thar region through the creation of political boundaries,the crafts of the Thar continue to share a common vocabulary and sensibility,a phenomenon perhaps best exemplifiedd by the embroidery and applique of the Meghwal,an artisan community who proctice weaving,leather tanning and wood work.The Meghwal migrated from Pakistan to Kachchh and Rajasthan;a Significant number have settled in the villages of the Bajju region of Bikaner district.Embroidery forms a key component of their visual culture as it is executed on products that are worn or given during marriage and on dowry objects.Consequently, the embroidery make use of mirrors and is characterized by its refined craftsmanship,dense coverage, rich colours,and elaborated motifs and finished edges.Meghwal embroidery may be broadlyd classified as pako,or solid and permanent, and kacho,or temporary.

Detail of a bokani,headscarf embroidered for the groom.The peacoak is regarded as a noble bird and is symbolic of a bridegroom.Executed in suf embroidery consisting of triangular units done in surface darning stitch.Stitched from the reverse side over counted threads of the base cloth,with floss silk that rests on the face side,covering the entire surface of the unit and the back serves as an anchor.
Inset Wall painting:the peacock motif used in suf embroidery.

The pako tradition utilizes geometrical forms,densely covered embroidery of chain stitch variations and herringbone stitch,and block printed outlines for the embroidery.Kacho embroidery is distinguished by its use of counted thread work techniques such as suf,kharek,kambhiri and mucca.Suf has triangular forms executed in darning stitch;aggregates of triangles are used to create a variety of motifs such as the peacocks,tree of life,temple and hill.Kharek,a technique named after the date fruit,uses satin stitch filled in areas outlined by double running stitch.kambhiri has double running stitch,which is linear and grows in geometric progession.Mucca, a technique borrowed from Muslim embroidery,refers to the use of gold and silver thread which is couched on the fabric.
Fabric embroidered for making a kanchali,blouse.The Sleeves are to be attached on either side.A Typical and predominant motif of suf work,the gul flower is made up of 4 bitta units;a bitta is made of 2 triangular units of suf.

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