Rajasthan is well known for the fine Kota Doria Muslin saris. Kota Doria as the name suggests is made in Kota city of Rajasthan. It is a type of cotton cloth that becomes special because of its weave. The weaving is done using pure cotton threads but the style is so varying that it makes the final cloth translucent and gives it cross pattern locally known as Khat.
It is traditional handloom from Kota in Rajasthan. This is the most open weave fabric woven in India. The weave is result of sufficient spacing between super fine warp and weft threads with slightly thick thread at regular counts to produce a very subtle check pattern. Also, the thicker threads makes the cloth strong and more durable. The thin fibers maintain its softness, delicacy and gives it translucency and gossamer appeal.
Kota Doria has always been a hot pick for the hot summer months in India. Its light and airy feeling makes it very comfortable and first choice for the hot summer days. Along with comfort, the softness and transparency makes this cotton cloth graceful and part of fashion. Sari is the most common wear made from Kota Doria, but now dress material and, Kurtas and other accessories are also hitting the market.
Kota saris were first made when weavers were brought to Kota (between 1707 and 1720) from the Deccan by Maharao Bhim Singh. The weaves originated in Mysore and surprisingly one could hardly find them now at Mysore. The workers settled there and passed down the art of weaving cotton in the open khat or check structure from generation to generation. Everything is done in the age old manner right from the setting of the patterns, to graph making, dyeing of the yarn and setting of the loom. Down South it is still called by name Kota Masurias.
Originally done in pure cotton, nowadays synthetic as well as silk threads are also woven along with cotton threads. This makes it cheaper and more durable. The traditional Kota Doria is found in white color only and one needs to get it dyed in different color. Single color dying, Shaded patterns, Bandhani pattern are common ones with new style coming up each day. Varieties as printed Kota Doria and silk embroidered borders has become very popular in last few years.
Bright colors like pomegranate red, purple, Bordeaux red, turquoise, lapis, turmeric yellow and saffron, besides the usual cream and gold are mostly demanded.. The range includes cloth embellished with gold thread and zari. The zari thread is woven or used for embroidery which makes this simple cotton very beautiful and festive. Heavily embroidered with silk threads is also used as party wear. The Kota Doria cloth has become an important include for summer collections done by various fashion designers. They have brought in accessories done in Kota, which include handbags, pouches and sashes embellished with Gotta Patti, Mukesh and Mirror work.